Friday 14 November 2008

digged up from the archives, some of the folk I've met so far.

Knieveltech, Sungam, and Mikesaint.
















Chezdillion and Limeydave.

















Sungam and Chossmonkey (Note tEh shootzing in fase and stealzing of teh ach beez).

Thursday 6 November 2008

Triangle rock club, Aceto, and what happens when you use the wrong fuel with a Jetboil.

No offense, I like it here and all, but the buses fracking suck. Seriously, public transport here is leaps and bounds behind the system in the UK.
My plan was to head over to Triangle Rock Club (it's a club, mind - not a gym) and meet some of the locals, but I had assumed that a bus would get me within walking distance. I couldn't find info on any such bus, but luckily Knieveltech (Allan) bailed me out with a quick lift into town. Allan is another great character nice enough to go out of his way to help a guy out. He has a pretty cool hairdo, too.
After a quick stop by Wendy's for some JT512 approved climbing nutrition we arrived at Triangle Rock Club where, apon entering, I met a friendly Mikesaint (Micheal) who hooked me up with a free session, shoes, harness and chalkbag (forgetfull much, Magnus?). Then I met Aceto, (Josh) who was... strange to say the least. He also refused to be photographed, saying that "the flash wasn't good for trolls" (sensitive skin or something).
I have to say it's interesting that I haven't met a single dic so far on my trip. Every single person I've met has been dead sound and humorous. Hopefully it stays that way, but I don't doubt that I'll meet some... less amiable characters along the line somewhere.
Anyways, enough rambling. Triangle Rock Club.
There was a fair number of people there (nothing compared to Alien Rock on a tuesday night, though) and everyone seemed laid back but not lazy.
I had a good time dandering about the gym and trying a few problems and routes.
Rumor has it that some of the routes there are a little sandbagged, which personally I hope is true (that one in the corner, Allan? how about that high left foot. WTF, right?) as supposedly easy climbs seemed to require some... unusual moves.
Another thing I found strange, people said it was like this in all US gyms, but using coloured tape instead of using the colour of the holds?
Very confusing, having to look at the tapes and stuff instead of just glancing at the hold.
I left this post without posting it for like ever. Now I forgetted what I was writing. Now it's going to be all cut off and stuff. A quick note about using the correct fuel with Jetboil stoves. Do it. Use the right fuel. The rong fuel iz not gud. Flames come out and brun you and stuff. Luckily I was on my GF's balcony so I could whip that thing (in all it's flaming glory) into the field behind her house so I could go hunt it down with a bucket of water. Other then a few singed hand hairs and a slightly melted mug cover thing all was well. You should have seen my GF's face when I ran into her room and said "the stove burst into flames so I threw it into the field. How do I get round the backl, and do you have a bucket?"

People I meet:
Knieveltech, Real name Allan. He was cool. If I remember clearly he said "fuck" a fair few times (reminded me of Kirkcaldy, actually...) He had a cool jeep/truck thing with what I believe was slackline stuff in it. From this I assume he slacklines. And for everyone who is wondering... no, he wasn't wearing his leopard print lycra (thank gawd!).

Aceto, real name Josh. This dude was wierd. He mainly hid under the front desk saying it was the next best thing to a bridge.

Mikesaint, real name Mike. This dude gets points for making my excusion free. He got to climb and post while getting paid. This makes me jealous. Ver', ver' jealous.

Saturday 1 November 2008

Pilot mountain and why I hate flying.

I've ranted about this enough so I'm going to make it short.
Flying sucks, delayed flights suck, missing flights because the flight before was delayed sucks, spending the night in detroit because the next flight is almost noon the next day sucks. I hate flying.

On a lighter note, the trip so far (ie 2 days) has been pretty much great. On Friday morning I met up with Limeydave to go clipping bolts at pilot mountain. After a short delay caused by an unknown party (hint: it was limeydave) we were on our way. We swung by McDonalds for breakfast to get that authentic American feel (Dave, I still owe you like 2 bucks) and were at the crag in no time.
It was a fairly nice crag, a little polished in places with a kind of Bowden/Kyloe-In esque rock.

Once got to the amphitheatre we met a group of people Dave had arranged to hook up with on the partner finding forums (people actually use those?). They were all pretty cool. Antony [sixleggedinsect], Jeff [Chezdillion-I think], Justin, and Nancy.
There was a small issue due to the fact that I forgot one of my climbing shoes (I did pack at 4 AM) but -i think it was Jeff- Lent me a nice par of Scarpa Vision Velcros which he ended up giving me at the end of the day (thanks man! 5*)

First "rouwt" Dave and i did was a 5.6 toprope, it was pretty fun. I have no idea what it was called. We climbed to the top and lowered off.

Then I tried to lead a five point ten a. I put on a show that would make Elvis proud
but managed to keep the onsight. The crux was a delicate traverse across a blank-ish face with just one foothold which made for a funky foot swap.
Then Dave had a little incident involving a stalker bee that followed him up the route he was leading buzzing around his face to the point where he almost jumped off.
After a quick munch we climbed a route (Black Rain, I think?) in two pitches so Dave could sit in the sun while he belayed me. It was a fun route - just off verticle, enough to give you a wee pump, but with big buckets and a beautiful view over what seemed to be most of NC.
Then we headed back to the amphitheater where Justin (was it Justin?) was climbing over the huge roof at the top. After a few bombz he finished the route and said i should try it on top rope.
I wasn't feeling too confident that day (having just hopped off the plane the day before) but I decided to give it a shot on TR. I fell off.
It was fun, though - nice moves from an undercling to some good jugs along the roof.

So then Justin (or was it Jeff?) gave me his shoes. That rocked. All I had to give him was a peanut butter and chocolate chip chewy bar.

Hopefully I'll have the pictures soon (though I'm not sure how many there were).

Oh, and next time I promise the writing will be better, and the subject more interesting.


Users met today:
Limeydave. Real name Dave. Funny guy, has a cool beard thing going. Doesn't like bees.
Sixleggedinsect. Real name Antony. Is just finishing a long-ish road trip, and has a cool website (http://electricant.net).
Chezdillion. Real name Jeff. A strong guy who lives just a few minutes up the road. I hope to meet him again some time when I have a rematch with that big roof (I mite try to lead it this time. Sounds unlikely though, eh?)
I also met a lady called Nancy, whom i believe has some connection with Jeff. She was also very cool and nice, and I believe the source of the free shoes. I think the camera was hers.
Moggs. Real name Justin. Another strong fellow (he also has a neat powerscream type thing) who is just starting a long road trip in his camper van. I'm hoping to hook up with him again at some point along the line.