Wednesday 31 December 2008

Run in fear! Haggizdonny shootz a REAL GUN, with real live bullets of metal and stuff.

This was totally sweet. I pure shot a handgun in my girlfriend's back yard. Her dad was like "Wanna shoot a gun?" and I was like "sure!" so we grab some earmuff things and go outside, then he just whips out a bad-ass looking handgun. He just had it on him in a holster the whole time!
Then he told us how the safety worked, and said "see that pin at the back? that means it's loaded, cocked, and there's one in the chamber." I thought that was pretty much awesome.
Anyways, for some reason they let me shoot it, and they took two videos, here's my two tries at shooting a gun. Notice me startle in fear the first time I shoot it (video 1), and the big goofy grin when I shoot all fast and stuff (video 2).



Also, check out the angry/evil looking gingerbread man my girlfriend made.

Monday 1 December 2008

"just fecking write the blog already" THE RED.

I've tried to write this a bunch of times, but how can you cover such great climbing, ace banter, and fantastic people in a blog? Not to mention the I don't rite good. Plus you don't get pc++ from it, but nevermind that.
So here's the short version.

After a short delay in getting started (hint: it was me) I met up with Allan and a few of his friends to nab a lift down to winston-salem, where I was to meet up with Nancy, with whom I would then venture forth to the land of Kentucky.
Can I just take a moment and say if you are EVER going through Winston-Salem, swing by "Bell Brothers". It's a cafeteria style restaurant place and the food is AMAZING. They had the best fried chicken I've ever had, and the fried ochra [spelling?] was mega tasty. Everyone was nice, and it just had a positive feel to it.
Anywhoozlbees, this aint a food blog, let's get on with the climbing!
Unfortunately I don't remember every detail of the climbing, but I'll try and go over the points I do remember (no more putting of blogging).

So, after what started as a beautiful but eventually deteriorated into a wet windy and dark drive we arrived at what some would call the very center of north American spurt climbing - Miguel's Pizza.


Arriving at Miguel's Pizza
There was a crowd out front, so after swiftly throwing together my bivi tent in the goat field and sorting out my food and dumping it in Nancy's tent (MISTAKE! read on to find out the tragic end which the tent met, and why I had no cookies), I headed to he front of the shop with the aim to meet some characters. After several "Hey, I'm Magnus and I don't know anyone here, hows it going?" introductions I found myself emerged in convorsation. I quickly met my first rc.commer, Dew4theQ, or Johnny Q - a hilarious character who not only pulls of the leather cowboy hat but looks kinda strange without it...
The great banter I grew to love (then miss) was had, with Johnny Q and his friends (Zach, Dereik, and... shitz, I forgetz) enjoying several bottles of Gatoraid (read: yuengling) from the keg in the back of their truck. I was sure I had caught site of rc.com's very own Clausti, but couldn't be sure, and no contact was made (okay, she avoided me due to expecting me to be annoying. deep burn).
The next morning, buzzing and looking foreward to my first taste of RRG rock, I geared up quickly and waited by Nancy's jeep while she got one or two things together.


















A busy car park and Vanland at Migeul's Pizza


Whilst I was waiting I heard a strange flute-like sound, which I realised was coming from some dude sitting by a nearby car. I headed over to meet the guy, who seemed a real character to be sure, and he introduced himself. "Hi there, Magnus, I'm Bab", "Bab, eh?" I replied.
"Nonono, not bAb, Bab, as in Robert" - bwhahah! What an accent! So his name was Bob.


















Bab talking to Nancy


We talked a little, and finding that he was to be alone for the day I invited him along to climb with Nancy and myself.
Soon thereafter, after a quick swing by Koops for a sandwhich and Ale81 to save for lunch, we were loving the Jeep's heavy suspension and 4 wheel drive heading down the pendigras road to The Shire.
The Shire, while not the most inspiring crag I went to during my stay at the RRG, is a very nice crag. On arrival we were a bit disapointed but not put off to find a large group from Perdue university setting up several topropes (well, 2 people were setting up the top ropes and the rest were looking on with the usual first-timers awe).
So I jump on a route they're not using, ready for my first taste of this tasty sandstone.
I don't know the name of the route but it was fun, easy (felt harder then it should have) and had some funky grab-the-pocket-sideways reachy moves on it. The rock was great! Perhaps a little sandy in places, but the features are simply awesome.
Now I may not have explained this earlier, but one of the first things Bob talked to me about was his online group-thing through which he'll teach you about business and (I think) sustainability and the like. He gave me a business card. Let's get one thing straight, I'm not judging this dude based on this on fact, but I did find it EXTREMELY funny to watch him almost systematically work his way through the group from Perdue (paying particular attention to the ladies - note the 20 year age difference*) telling them about this group. I'm almost certain one or two of them got more then one round of it.
It was about this time when the man himself, Johnny Q, showed up. It was pretty lucky they ended up at the same crag (out of hundreds to choose from) as us. They jumped onto a nice looking route (a .10 something I think) which tackled a steep section of the wall on deep but sloping pockets.
Whilst we were doing this, the Perdue group were climbing the TR's on several nice lines (which we later did). Nancy and I went to do another route, meanwhile Bab took some photos, one of which was of a young lady tacking an overhang. He commented on how the silhouette looked great, and how the photo would rock, then [cringe] on how nice her breasts looked from that angle! He sure was a bold guy.
A short while later, after the Perdue group made a hasty retreat, I gave the route that Johnny Q put up a shot. Not surprisingly I was hopelessly pumped almost immediately, but *cough* I hung my way to the top. Then I climbed a slabby but powerful 10, then I hung all over (PUMPED) a steep but juggy 9, then I took photos of Johnny Q climbing this super attractive line:






















Johnny Q enjoying this Astetic and eye catching line at the Shire.

I was tempted to give it a shot, but it was late, and I didn't want to back off only to have someone else climb it to get the draws. This is before I knew the grading system, so I though it was out of reach at 10d, but I reckon I would have had it (with a few hangs eheheheh) had I given it a bash.

Hmmm, that night... Well, I enjoyed a fair amount of *ahem* Gatoraid, and a semi-small amount of Jim Beam. I believe that this occurance was quickly followed by semi-loud and potentially (though I'm told I wasn't) obnoxious ranting about how I got my name, then shameless talk of how parties are more fun when you're nekked. I *believe* that I then invited myself to some girl's party in Michigan in march, and annouced it would be a designated naked party. The whole night was hilarious. I forgot the firl's name, and where the party was, but I think that's for the best...

And THAT was my first 24 hours at the red river gorge. Fuckin' awesome!
I can't remember the next week terribly well, though... I can tell you that at one point I found myself at the Hideout in muir valley climbing Boltergeist. What a line! There's something fantastic about it, not sure quite what it was. Veriety perhaps.
And, in true rc.com style, I had to take the PANCAKES option and make a quick ascent of "International Route of Pancakes" which I can honestly say is the WORST ROUTE I have EVER CLIMBED (including Ochill hill chosspile highballs and FA's). Who the F*** bolted that thing??






















Magnus climbing "international chosspile of pancakes".

Worth it for the pancakes, though.
Hmmmm, what else happened that week? Lots of rock was climbed, lots (AND LOTS) off Ale81 drank (that stuff is fecking awesome) and a movie watched (the changling - good film, I strongly reccomend). And, of course, a visit to the Ale81 factory!

I believe after that we bailed for a few days and hung out in North Carolina for 4 or 5 days, on of which was spent at Pilot Mountain where I had a good time and met some more cool folks. It was also a good confidence boost since I managed to find myself on top of a couple 11s (I think).
The first one was Overhanging Hangover, which was mostly straightforeward except for 2 cruxes, a low one consisting of two small crimps and a long move with good feet, and the top one, pulling over a roof for a mediocure hold with a long move.














































Magnus climbing the lower (top) and upper (bottom) cruxes on Overhanging Hangover.

After that I had a crack at Blind Prophet, which I almost flashed but was spit off by shoulder cramp (not enough water), then later I laughed myself off it when Nancy made some comment about my gut.
Now, the layout of blind prophet is hard to explain, but there is a small roof above which there is a very small ledge. If you use the ledge as a hold then foothold you climb by easily, but if you sit on it you are honestly fucked, facing away from the wall..
Alex told me to sit on it, and I did. I was STUCK for like 15 minutes before I (almost falling off) turned myself around and shakily got back onto the route. What a hilariously evil dickmove. At some point during the day I had a fleeting meeting with TJgosurf, who I would later spend a weekend climbing with. But that's a nother story.

And that summerizes week one at the RRG. Week 2 will be posted soon.

Holy crapdaddies! I forgot about Chossmonkey and Granite_Grrl. One morning, very much feeling like the morning after the night before, I was making my way back to my bivibag from the bog when I was confronted with what seemed to be a maniac's grin. I was still half asleep, and pretty much the only words I caught were "haggisdonny" but I already knew who it was. The man himself (at the time) PC king Chossmonkey, or "Nathan" as real life people seem to call him. We talked a little, and Granite_Grrl made and quick apperance, commenting on the use of "haggisdonny" while offline or something (I'm still asleep, here, and amn't feeling top notch) and some mention of climbing was made. After a quick breakfast of Straberry and cream porridge and some hot cocoa, I met Nate and Rebecca in the carpark and we headed off to Drive-By crag where several fine routes were climbed (or at least mostly climbed), including the classic covershot which I pussed off of on lead but TR'd fine. Who knows what was going through my head. Nate made a nice flash of it, and Rebecca one hung it (well, does a screamer/schreecher of a whipper count as a hang?) and Nate climbed a fine looking 12a. Then we headed over to Bob Marley wall where Nate quickly flashed the 11 at the far left. Holyshitdamn were those bolts rusty - I'm talking foot long + rust stains dripping down from the bolts. No way was I going near that thing. I guess I wasn't feeling brave that day. Then Nate did a 12a or b (or something) in the cave on the right- a sweet looking line going up an imposingly steep ground on deep and heavily pocketed rock (several "oh shitz! rong hold!" moments were had) and it was pretty much dark.

Did I mention how F*cking awesome everyone at Miguel's is? What a crowd. What a crowd.

RC.commers Meeted:
Dew4theQ - Cool guy from, I think, Maryland or Maine. Something like that. Likes to say "Do Battle" and wear a leather cowboy hat - and actually pulls it off.
TJgosurf - A cool fellow, more on him later.
RSmillburn - A nice guy who gave me a lift down from Raleigh to Pilot mountain where I was to meet Nancy to get back up to the red for round 2. Climbs with his wife, Christina, and has a cute baby (the quietest, and therefore awesomest, baby I've ever seen). Also more on him later.
Chossmonkey - While it's temping to lie and slander him and make him sound like an epic g33k, he was actually a genuinely nice guy who climbs hard and can have a good laugh.
Granite_Grrl - Chosmonkey's wife, and another fine climber. Has a good laugh, seems to keep nate in line and out of trouble, and pushes herself hard on the sharp end. More then I can say for myself.